Service manual

I am looking for a service manual for this model, or instructions on how to do diagnostics, such as forced defrost.

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RE129RW1 Start relay on a 1989 White-Westinghouse

My fridge stopped cooling the other day; after searching the symptoms (fan still running, no cooling, clicking sounds every 3-5 min.) I determined the cause was a faulty start relay; I puled it out and sure enough, it makes the rattling sound. So it seems it’s just a matter of installing a new one.

Finding it however is the hard part: I’ve pretty much given up on finding the exact same model, so my question is, what would be a reasonable alternative to allow it to run for a year or 2 more until I can buy another fridge?

The start realy is a 1-pin, 2 hole model; there are two serials, one near the pin reads PTH AS 4R7M180 C(circled m)95CP, and the other one is PTH490C -AS4R7 (circled m)5CM95B

Like I said, I bought it in a second-hand store, so there’s no guarantee it’s the original part, or even the original compressor for that matter. It’s a Matsushita model D118LGAA 1 PH R-12


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201FD Sub Zero freezer only compressor replacement

Our Sub zero freezer (1983!!) is on the fritz. Won’t cool and there is a clicking noise when the freezer tries to start up. Had a repairman out who diagnosed the problem as a compressor gone bad. Repairman said that both compressor and evaporator would need to be replaced ($2500) because would have to switch to R-134. He also said the evaporator is no longer made or available. He didn’t seem to want to even consider fixing the freezer, indicating the machine is way too old.

Did my own searching and I found the evaporator. Still trying to evaluate nature of repair as we have the matching fridge (which is still going strong!) and both are in impeccable condition visually. Called another service tech who explained to me that only compressor would need replacing. He indicated he would replace compressor, clean out the system nitrogen… all to tune of $1200.

Question I have is do you have to replace compressor AND evaporator when switching to R-134, or is second tech right in that you can get a good long term fix by just replacing compressor only? The evaporator isn’t broken, first tech just leads us to believe we have to change out the evaporator when changing to r-134. Both techs seem at odds with their explanations. Trying to get a better notion on the repair.

and yes, we are also considering buying a new freezer as well, but want to have a complete picture on repairing as the appliance looks practically new and replacement would also involve some cabinet changes.

Thanks!


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UF2483C1 Light switch for old freezer

I was given an old upright freezer, on the front top the tag says SOUTHERN HEAVY DUTY COMMERCIAL. On the manufactures tag it was sold by Broich Sales in Minnesota. The model number is UF2483C1. The light switch is broken and looks to fit in a round hole the size of a nickel. I have googled everything under the sun and can only come up with square switches for Imperials with model numbers close to mine. Any clue what to do?


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