Thermador ice maker doesn't dispense

10yo Thermador KBUDT4270A02. Over night, the ice make went nuts and filled up to the point where the container was popped out of the dispenser.

We had briefly used crushed ice the night before from its normal setting of cubes. Doesn’t seem to be any ice dams in the freezer otherwise.

I removed the dispenser chassis and it was frosted over on the non-active interior. Washed it clean and shut off the ice maker for the time being.

I discovered after the fact that the drip pan underneath overflowed as well.

Just emptied the overflow pan again. it was about 1/3 full in a day or so.
The ice dispenser motor turns as does the auger, by hand.
But when the door is closed to allow function (I would think), though empty of ice, the auger doesn’t move.

Not sure if I have 1 issue or more ……….?


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Danby DFF280WDB not starting compressor, interior light flashing

Hello there,

I have two fridges of the same model, DFF280WDB from Danby. One black unit works fine, and serves as a reference. The white unit, once plugged in, doesn’t make any noise, interior lights are flashing slowly. Compressor doesn’t start, doesn’t click.

Already tried: I swapped the boards, and the “white” controller board works fine in the “black” fridge, so I believe that rules out the board as the source of the problem.

I also removed two parts that were connected to the compressor, likely the overload protector and what is marked as a relay. The overload protector has continuity.

The other part should be the relay, with “M” and S” markings (S for starter coil, not directly connected to AC, M for motor, directly conncted to AC?). It contains a disc, though not sure what purpose it serves.

Electrical diagram:
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Could it be something in the relay box next to the compressor? How do I test this part?
Edit: nevermind, I found out it must be a PTC, with resistance between terminals increasing as current flows. From what I understand, when cold, AC is applied to both starter and main compressor coils, running capacitor is shorted, then power is gradually cut off from the starter coil, and capacitor is un-shorted.
The PTC part tests at 5.3 ohms, whereas the OL tests at 0.6 ohms. Does that mean the start relay isn’t good anymore?

Could I try to hook up the compressor directly to the AC, first hooking up M and S to phase, then disconnecting S after one minute, leaving only M connected to phase?

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