Fridgadaire FRT15HBDWO how to bypass the defrost timer

Hi All, My first time here…hope someone can help. My refridgerator has been slowly functioning less well over the past week after a couple of brownouts.
I think it’s the defrost timer and would like to bypass the switch for testing. There is no ice at all and the freezer was working until today while the fridge was warmish. Now both are below temp. When I turn the defrost timer manually the compressor and fans kick on but don’t stay on for long (less and less each day). I ordered a defrost timer which won’t be here for 4 more days. The bottom compartment around the compressor has been cleaned out and I did feel the heater in the freezer come on at one point. The door gasket is good. The temperature control in the fridge tested good. wiring diagram is included. I’m thinking of bypassing the timer by connecting 3 and 4…any advice would be appreciated. thanks
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leaking ice maker

water dripping from ice maker replaced ice shoot door was not closing did not fix problem it will leak when ice maker is turned off. do I need to…

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leak from ice maker

water leaking from ice maker thought it because the door on the ice shoot was not closing letting warm air in replaced that part the next day it was…

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DBC7070BLSST Danby Silhouette beverage/wine fridge won't cool

I noticed on Sunday my 3yr old Dandy dual zone wine/beverage fridge (DBC7070BLSST) stopped working all of a sudden. It was working perfectly on Saturday and all the drinks in the beverage side were cool at 39 degrees and the wine side was a nice 56 degrees.

When I opened it on Sunday morning the inside of the fridge was actually quite warm, I am assuming because the compressor was running super hot and heating up the inside. On the right zone digital display it read H1, not sure what that means, that’s the side that was set to 56. I checked the coils and everything seemed clean.

The compressor is working as there is a slight hum and it vibrates a little – not that much though. I unplugged fridge and checked the resistance of the compressor with a multimeter and it seemed fine (Youtube’d it how to check it). The fan next to the compressor also seemed fine and turns on. The fans inside the separate wine and beverage areas also turn on. After running it again for a bit I checked the coils under the fridge and they weren’t warm at all, but the compressor was burning hot again.

I checked the cooling coils in the back of the fridge and they weren’t cold at all. I then removed the starter relay and replaced it with a new one I bought today, but the fridge still won’t cool. I can hear the freon working as it sounds like it’s trickling or gurgling, so I am assuming I don’t have a leak. Given the fridge died so fast without any lack of cooling before it is leading me to believe it is some electrical part that shorted out.

Any ideas? Could it be one of the thermistors? Anything else I can check for?


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