True Gem-12 Not Cooling

Hello Everyone,

I have a old commercial refrigerator that I’ve been using as a beer fridge for a while now and it recently stopped cooling.

It’s a True GEM-12 and after doing some research the thing may be pretty close to 23 years old – So my hopes of fixing it are relatively low but I figured I’d at least try.

I’ve done a bit of tinkering and troubleshooting and here is what I’ve done:

  • I can hear the compressor turn on when I plug the refrigerator in.
  • The compressor is warm, but not hot, to the touch after it has been running a while.
  • I can hear the compressor shut off when I move the temperature control to off (0).
  • I can hear the compressor turn on when I move the temperature control back on.
  • The coils are clean – I’ve vacuumed them several times.
  • Both the fan cooling the coil and the fan pushing air into the refrigerator are running.
  • The condensation hose is free of clogs.

Any advice or ideas on what to do next besides throw it away?


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Woods Freezer. sourcing parts

I am in need of a replacement thermostat for my Woods Medalist upright freezer. model V350. Type MBOAA2. other numbers on the unit are : CC12F2 (R12) 227

Numbers found on the thermostat itself include : Ranco K50/K54 – K57/K59
81-35-7P YPE-K50-P 1168
4 30733.005

Local shop want $ 109 and would take four to six weeks, anyone know of a good appliance parts shop that could help out ? thanks in advance.


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RF195ADUX1 Code F20 (broken wire) in Fisher Paykel. Can't even order new door?

Code F20 means low current to flapper heater, caused by either an open heater element or broken wire. In my case, tech diagnosed a broken wire, but the wire is moulded into the door foam and the entire door needs to be replaced.

Unfortunately, it appears Fisher Paykey no longer sells a replacement door now!

Anyone found a work-around for this or contacted the company?


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Need Expert advice on converting to hang a whole deer in

I know this is a little lengthy but maybe someone can help. I saw many years ago someone who had a fridge.. freezer standard on top.. he had removed the floor of the freezer (ceiling of fridge) and made one huge unit. He then hung hangers from the roof of the now one chamber unit and now had a meat hanging fridge.
I want to create one of these and am searching for some used fridges. My problem is.. how do I know if the fridge I am looking at has the freezing elements and tubing in the actual floor of the freezer.. therefore not allowing me to remove the floor.. as opposed to one whose tubing and so forth is all in the walls etc.. so I can remove the floor. What am I looking for? I want to have a unit I can hang a whole deer in. Thank you


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GE Profile Side by Side doesn't cool at all

About a 2 weeks ago we noticed the fridge not cooling as well as we liked. It gradually got worse. Then for two days it worked perfectly. Then the temperature on the fridge side started rising but the freezer was only a little warmer than normal. I removed the panel in the back of the freezer and noticed ice and frost on the lower side of the coils. I thawed them out with a hair dryer. The temperature continued to rise to the point that it seemed nothing was working. It had stopped cooling completely. I removed the back panel to expose the compressor and motherboard. The compressor did not seem to be running right. Sometimes it would start and sometimes it wouldn’t. The voltage from the motherboard to the inverter board was fluctuating rapidly from 4 to 6 volts DC. The winding’s in the compressor seemed to check out okay. If I unplugged the fridge then plugged it back in the compressor would sometimes start and sometimes not. I replaced the inverter board and no change. I replaced the motherboard and the DC voltage was just under 6 volts dc and no longer fluctuated. The compressor and fan seemed to start normally but was unusually quiet. I let it run for 24 hours and it did not cool at all. No frost, ice, or anything. The compressor still doesn’t seem to be working properly

Help!!!


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Help needed with homebuilt glycol beer cooler, capilary size and length

Hello everyone

I am hoping someone smarter than me can help me out.
I have built a home made glycol cooler much like this one. https://www.acbeverage.com/catalog/p…e-13-hp-air-75

it is using a dan foss compressor 1/3hp using 134a
it has a 1/2hp condenser with a variable speed fan.
it is using about 90 feet of 3/8 copper tube in a coil as the evaporator.
it has a tub of 50/50 glycol water that holds 3 gallons, the entire system holds about 4 gallons of 50/50

I need to get the glycol down to about -20f to send it to my ice beer tower.

I need to know what size and what length capillary tube is needed
and also how much refridgerant should I use.

if there is anyone out there that can help me out please let me know

Thank you.

P.s. I know that in the web page it says .054, @ 112″ but this is with a matching condenser. ie. 1/3hp compressor to 1/3 condenser

BUT my unit is 1/3 compressor to 1/2hp condenser. and I am un sure of the final bath temp in the one in the web page, this is why I need help.

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Help needed with homebuilt glycol beer cooler, capilary size and length

Hello everyone

I am hoping someone smarter than me can help me out.
I have built a home made glycol cooler much like this one. https://www.acbeverage.com/catalog/p…e-13-hp-air-75

it is using a dan foss compressor 1/3hp using 134a
it has a 1/2hp condenser with a variable speed fan.
it is using about 90 feet of 3/8 copper tube in a coil as the evaporator.
it has a tub of 50/50 glycol water that holds 3 gallons, the entire system holds about 4 gallons of 50/50

I need to get the glycol down to about -20f to send it to my ice beer tower.

I need to know what size and what length capillary tube is needed
and also how much refridgerant should I use.

if there is anyone out there that can help me out please let me know

Thank you.

P.s. I know that in the web page it says .054, @ 112″ but this is with a matching condenser. ie. 1/3hp compressor to 1/3 condenser

BUT my unit is 1/3 compressor to 1/2hp condenser. and I am un sure of the final bath temp in the one in the web page, this is why I need help.


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Sub Zero 601F won't stop icing up

I’ve got a set of Sub Zero 601R and 601F that I’ve owned since the house was new in 1999. The 601R (fridge) has been bulletproof. The 601F (freezer) has been great… with the exception of having to completely defrost it about once a year. I keep the condenser vacuumed. I make sure the drain is clear (until it ices up). I’ve replaced the control board. I’ve replaced the drain heater. It just keeps icing up.

There’s got to be something I’m missing. Any ideas of what else I can look for or check?

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Sub Zero 601F won't stop icing up

I’ve got a set of Sub Zero 601R and 601F that I’ve owned since the house was new in 1999. The 601R (fridge) has been bulletproof. The 601F (freezer) has been great… with the exception of having to completely defrost it about once a year. I keep the condenser vacuumed. I make sure the drain is clear (until it ices up). I’ve replaced the control board. I’ve replaced the drain heater. It just keeps icing up.

There’s got to be something I’m missing. Any ideas of what else I can look for or check?


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'Soft tapping' sound Blomberg BRFB0900: 24 Inch Built-in Bottom-Freezer Refrigerator

Our Blomberg built-in bottom-freezer refrigerator has suddenly developed a ‘tapping’ sound (not terribly loud but bothersome nonetheless) ostensibly coming from the bottom of the appliance. The appliance works perfectly. The tap frequency is about a couple every second. It continues for 10-15 minutes, every 30 minutes, and goes on all day long–but I can’t say the timing is consistently that way. It’s more prominent on hot days (80F+). Virtually disappears on cooler days (75F-). In my opinion, the sound does not resemble a faulty relay…specially with it coming and going with temperatures. But what do I know!

I have difficulty triggering it by leaving either fridge or freezer door open. I’m also not sure if it associated with when the compressor kicks in…I really can’t tell.

Any hypotheses on what might be the cause is very welcome!

Mo

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