U-Line Beverage refrigerator, Compressor cycles on for 2 seconds and off for 23 seconds continuously

Hello,

Love your forum. I have a U-Line Beverage refrigerator.
It had a leak in the evaporator line that I repaired with a pierce valve.

(Didn’t pierce the pipe, just used the compression aspect of it to seal it.)
Pulled -30″ & repair held.

Went to recharge the system but now the compressor cycles on 2 seconds & off for
23 seconds. Like clock work.

I have looked at other threads (Kenmore with five seconds on then off)(relay fixed it)
And another thread where it was a motherboard issue.

My Frig. Has an Embraco EMI 30HER compressor with 9.8LRA.

I have taken the relay and the overload off.

Checked the compressor ohms. 29 ohms across bottom pins. 21 ohms left bottom pin to top.
8 ohms right bottom pin to top pin.
Resistance seems high but it does add up. My multimeter is a ‘mid level’ Tenma 72-7770.
(Not sure if it is precise.)

The overload ohms is 1.5. Could this be the issue?

The compressor worked fine before i made my repair.

What else can i check?


Source: New feed

Continue Reading

Osborne 1700 bottle cooler

Hi,

I was lucky to be given this beauty free the other day

Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170304_205554.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	1.34 MB 
ID:	32450

It was taken out of a pub because it failed it’s PAT test.

I have done some basic testing of it for safety (checked plug, cable, earthed, short circuits) and the only thing I could find was that a tiny nick in the cable enough to go through to cable but not through the cable (if that makes sense). I know this is a PAT fail so I’m hoping that’s all it was.

I switched it on (after letting it stand 24 hours) and thankfully it worked ok.

Filled it full of bottles and left it for a few hours and tried a beer..

Yep lovely cold beer, I was one happy chap.

left it running over night, opened the door and checked the bottles again .. warm 🙁 gutted

So I switched it off, took the back off to have a poke around and saw this mess…

Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170306_182634.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	351.6 KB 
ID:	32451

I gave it a dam good clean and stuck the vacuum cleaner in and not had chance to retest it, but just wanted to check if this much crap is capable of making the fridge run warm.. I’m just a bit worried that maybe there is more to this, and that’s why it failed its test in the first place..

Is there any other bits I should maybe think about testing ?? I wasn’t too concerned about the compressor as it initially got cold, but may be the thermostat (and how would I test that?)
Relay?? I’ve also checked all the seals by the way and they seem good.

cheers

Daz

Attached Thumbnails

Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170306_182634.jpg 
Views:	N/A 
Size:	351.6 KB 
ID:	32451
 

Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170304_205554.jpg 
Views:	N/A 
Size:	1.34 MB 
ID:	32450
 


Source: New feed

Continue Reading

Air Diffuser housing removal – KitchenAid KSRL25FXMS03

Hi Everyone,
I needed some help figuring out how to remove the housing for an air diffuser on a KitchenAid refrigerator. I looked up info on the web and I reviewed whatever I found and youtube as well. But most housing for the air diffuser is easily removed in some models with a simple screw. However, my luck and refrigerator the housing is held in place by what I thought was a simple nut. The air diffuser housing looks similar to other housings, but this one has a small canal where I thought I can fit a socket to remove the nut, but when I took pictures of the canal it is some sort of rounded off nut? I have no idea how I would take it off, unless of course I need a special tool. If anyone has any info I would appreciate it as to inform me what kind of nut it is and what tool is necessary to remove this.
KitchenAid: Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5089.JPG 
Views:	1 
Size:	73.2 KB 
ID:	32436Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5174.jpg 
Views:	0 
Size:	91.3 KB 
ID:	32437Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5181.jpg 
Views:	1 
Size:	81.3 KB 
ID:	32438
Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails

Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5089.JPG 
Views:	N/A 
Size:	73.2 KB 
ID:	32436
 

Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5174.jpg 
Views:	N/A 
Size:	91.3 KB 
ID:	32437
 

Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5181.jpg 
Views:	N/A 
Size:	81.3 KB 
ID:	32438
 

Powered by WPeMatico

Continue Reading

Bosch side by side B20CS51SNS fridge section has very different temps for each shelf

The fridge section is set to 4 Celcius on the control panel, but the inside of the fridge has wildly varying temperatures, mostly depending on shelf, but even between the left and right sides of the same shelf. The top shelf, when measuring the items with a laser thermometer, varies between 9 to 14 C. The items on the next shelf down read from 2 to 4 C, the next -1 to 3, and the drawers below that are around 8, 12, and 12C. I’m hoping this is just a fan problem, like the similar issue I had with the freezer side a few years ago, which was fixed with a new fan. But in that case the freezer was colder as you went lower, which is what I would have expected to see in the fridge if it was just a fan issue, not warmer at the top and bottom, and freezing in the middle?

Powered by WPeMatico

Continue Reading

Bosch side by side B20CS51SNS fridge section has very different temps for each shelf

The fridge section is set to 4 Celcius on the control panel, but the inside of the fridge has wildly varying temperatures, mostly depending on shelf, but even between the left and right sides of the same shelf. The top shelf, when measuring the items with a laser thermometer, varies between 9 to 14 C. The items on the next shelf down read from 2 to 4 C, the next -1 to 3, and the drawers below that are around 8, 12, and 12C. I’m hoping this is just a fan problem, like the similar issue I had with the freezer side a few years ago, which was fixed with a new fan. But in that case the freezer was colder as you went lower, which is what I would have expected to see in the fridge if it was just a fan issue, not warmer at the top and bottom, and freezing in the middle?


Source: New feed

Continue Reading

B22CS80SNS/01 Bosch Refrigerator working, freezer warm

I have a Bosch side by side refrigerator model B22CS80SNS/01 that has worked perfectly in the 2 years I’ve owned it (came with the house). Suddenly the food started to thaw in the freezer. The freezer is now blowing almost room temp out of the vent, and the refrigerator vent is blowing about 38 F.

I tested the freezer compartment transducer using a table in the service manual. Resistance matched table values from near freezing to about 85F, as measured at the connector on the control board located on the top of the unit.

I also ohm’d out the compressor, looks good with 7 ohms between each of the 3 pins. However, it’s a variable speed compressor, and the inverter is only getting 2.3V DC. My understanding is that it should be 4-6 Vdc, but there is no value in the manual.

This unit has two evaporators that share a single condenser, one evaporator in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. A solenoid controls refrigerant flow to each evaporator. Since one compartment is warm and the other cool, I assume the solenoid is blocking refrigerant to the freezer evaporator. The solenoid has two wires to it. I couldn’t get the meter into the connector with it connected, but with it disconnected I measured 40V AC to ground on one pin and 0 V to ground on the other. I realize now that I should have measured pin to pin…but it was past midnight. Does anyone know how the solenoid is controlled by the 2 wires? It’s labeled AWECO KMV432 120V 60Hz, so I assume it’s AC. Couldn’t find any info on it.

I’m thinking it’s a bad control board but don’t want to buy the wrong part. To make matters worse, I can’t find a wiring diagram for the unit anywhere, so I don’t know for sure which of 3 boards control the solenoid or the inverter voltage. Service manual is terrible, doesn’t give any info.
Are there any other tests I can try? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks! Brad


Source: New feed

Continue Reading

GE Freezer frost problem

I have a GE side by side and have been having issues with frost in my freezer. I researched the issue and it was suggested that it could be the gasket. It did looked worn and I noticed the freezer wasn’t shutting all the way. Which causes warm air to enter and cause frost. I fixed that issue and my freezer closes completely. I am back to having frost build up. My food is staying frozen so that’s not an issue. Any thoughts?

MODEL: GSHS6NGBBHSS

Powered by WPeMatico

Continue Reading